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Eyebrow pencil: how to fill in natural-looking brows with fine strokes
A fine-tipped eyebrow pencil lets you fill small gaps without drawing a solid outline – but used heavily, it can make brows look “drawn on”. The difference is not down to the pencil itself but to three things: shape, colour and stroke technique. Here you will find out how to get all three right and fill in natural-looking brows in 2–5 minutes.
In short
- Three guide points – the start above the side of your nose, the arch roughly in line with your pupil and the tail at the outer corner of your eye – help you map out the shape. They are a guide, not a strict rule for everyone: adapt the arch to your natural brow shape, eye proportions and the way your hairs grow.
- Choose the shade by your brow hairs and overall hair colour: blondes usually suit one or two shades darker, brunettes one shade lighter. When brows turn grey, what matters most is how much contrast you want.
- Natural-looking brows come from short, fine strokes in the direction the hairs grow, not a solid line. Keep the start of the brow softer than the tail.
- When you have finished, blend the colour with the spoolie, and if your hairs are unruly, set them with a clear brow gel or brow soap.
Eyebrow shape: 3 guide points to start from
You can use the pencil itself like a ruler to find three guide points: where your brow starts, where it arches and where it ends. Just do not try to draw a completely new shape with them – brows look most natural when you enhance the line of the hairs you already have. Before you start, mark the points very lightly, so you do not have to guess where to stop or how high to take the arch.
- The start. Hold the pencil vertically against the side of your nose. Where it crosses the brow is usually where the brow begins.
- The highest point. Look straight into the mirror and angle the pencil so the line runs from the side of your nose through your pupil. Where it crosses the brow is roughly where the arch sits. If your natural arch is slightly closer or further out, follow that rather than the line.
- The end. Angle the pencil further – from the side of your nose through the outer corner of your eye. This is roughly where the brow ends.
Check one more thing: the tip of the tail looks best at the same height as the start of the brow or slightly higher. If it drops lower, your eyes can look tired or sad.
Tip
Work on both brows alternately: a few strokes on the left, a few on the right. This makes symmetry much easier than finishing one brow and then trying to “copy” it on the other side. Your brows will never be perfectly identical anyway – and they do not need to be.
How to choose an eyebrow pencil colour
Choose your eyebrow pencil colour based on your brow hairs and your overall hair colour. If you colour your hair, the roots alone can be a poor guide – compare how the shade looks next to your face and with the hair colour you wear now.
- Blondes – one or two shades darker than your hair. A shade that is exactly as light simply disappears against the skin.
- Brown hair – a shade close to your brow hairs: one shade lighter looks more natural, one shade deeper more defined.
- Dark hair – one shade lighter than your hair. Black brows with dark hair often look harsh and heavy.
- Greying brows – first look at the colour of your remaining hairs and decide how much contrast you want. A soft brown often looks natural, but a stronger shade works too if you like it.
Pay attention to undertone as well. If your hair has golden or reddish tones, a warmer brown will suit you better; if it is ashy or greyish, choose a cooler one.
The LUMIMI Eyebrow pencil comes in 4 shades. Use the table as a guide to which one might suit you:
| Shade | Tone | Who it may suit |
|---|---|---|
| Mocha Brown | The lightest of the four, a soft brown | Blondes, dark blonde and light brown hair, greying brows when you want soft contrast |
| Coffee Brown | A warm, deeper brown | Brown, chestnut and warm-toned hair |
| Dark Brown | A dark, cooler brown | Dark and black hair for every day, when black looks too harsh |
| Midnight Black | Black | Very dark or black hair and brows, or a bolder evening look |
Tip
If you are choosing between two shades, compare both against your brow hairs in daylight. A softer shade is often easier to build up with a second layer, while brows that come out too dark are harder to tone down. Colours can look different on screen, so try a new shade in daylight the first time.
LUMIMI
Eyebrow pencil
A twist-up pencil with an ultra-fine tip for hair-like strokes and a built-in spoolie at the other end. 4 shades: Midnight Black, Mocha Brown, Coffee Brown and Dark Brown.
Discover the twist-up eyebrow pencilHow to fill in eyebrows with a pencil: 6 steps
Fill in your eyebrows with short, light strokes: start along the lower edge and finish by blending the colour with the spoolie. Once you have the hang of it, the whole thing takes 2–5 minutes. Do not rush the first few times – two thin layers are better than one heavy one.
If you wear foundation, do your brows after it. Before you start, brush any foundation or powder residue out of the hairs with the spoolie – the pencil will glide more evenly.
- Brush your brows upwardsUse the spoolie on the pencil to brush the hairs up and slightly out towards your temple. This shows you the true shape of your brow and any gaps you need to fill. Now lightly mark your three guide points too.
- Draw the lower edge with light strokesStart at the lower edge of the brow and work from the arch towards the tail. Not a solid line but short strokes side by side, with barely any pressure. The lower edge creates the shape, so you usually do not need to define the top edge strongly.
The lower edge – in short strokes, not one continuous line. - Draw in hairs and fill the gapsDraw a few short, tapered strokes that follow the direction of your brow hairs: in the middle of the brow, diagonally upwards and towards the temple. Fill gaps not with a block of colour but with a few strokes that overlap your real hairs.
In the middle, the strokes go diagonally upwards – the way real hairs grow. TipEach stroke should be fine, roughly the length of a real hair, and get lighter towards the end: start with a little more pressure and ease off at the finish. In the tail, draw the strokes almost horizontally, towards the temple. Leave tiny gaps between them, and when you are done, look in the mirror at arm’s length – if you cannot see individual strokes, you have nailed it.
- Keep the front softer than the tailAt the start of the brow, a few fine, almost vertical hairs are enough. The colour is strongest from the arch to the tail and gradually fades towards the nose. This gradient looks most natural on most brows, but if your hairs grow differently, adapt your strokes to their direction and density.
- Blend with the spoolieTurn the pencil round and brush through the brow a few times with the spoolie – first upwards, then along its length. The strokes merge with the hairs, the excess comes off, and the start of the brow becomes even softer.
The spoolie softens the start of the brow and hides strokes that are too strong. - Set them if you likeIf your hairs are long or unruly, brush them through with a clear brow gel or brow soap. This keeps them in place and makes the shape look neater. If your hairs behave, you can skip this step.
Eyebrow pencil for hair-like strokes: which one works
For hair-like strokes, the easiest pencil to work with has a very fine tip and a creamy texture that glides without much pressure. Twist up just a short length of the tip and hold the pencil a little further back – that way you will press more lightly. After a few strokes, check they are not coming out too thick.
The LUMIMI Eyebrow pencil twists up, so it never needs sharpening. Its ultra-fine tip makes short strokes easy, the creamy formula glides with a light touch, and the spoolie at the other end blends the colour – everything you need for your brows in one pencil. If you would still like a separate brush, we cover the different types in our article on makeup brushes.
Filling in sparse and greying brows
When filling in sparse brows, start where there are still some hairs, and only then add a few soft strokes of varying length into the bare patches. Match the intensity to your natural brows, not to your age: the more skin shows between the hairs, the more any overly strong stroke stands out.
When brows are sparse
Do not draw a solid outline: fill bare patches with a few hairs that cross each other slightly, the way real brows grow. If the tail is missing, finish it according to the third guide point, but do not extend it any further.
Important
If your brows have suddenly started thinning noticeably, or the skin around them is red, itchy or flaky, it is worth seeing a doctor. Makeup helps to disguise it, but it does not address the cause.
When hairs turn grey and lighter
When brows get lighter or greyer, or the tail starts to droop slightly, fewer lines are often enough: fill in the gaps and define the lower edge. Match the shade to the colour of your remaining hairs and the amount of contrast you want.
- Use the pencil to fill the gaps between sparse or greying hairs, then brush through with the spoolie for a soft finish.
- Draw the tail slightly higher than where it naturally drops – it can make your eyes look more lifted and awake.
- If the skin around your brows is thinner or has fine lines, do not stretch it or press hard – a creamy texture spreads easily with light movements.
Common mistakes when filling in eyebrows with a pencil
The most common mistake is a shade that is too dark, but it is not the only one. Here is what makes brows look “drawn on” and how to fix it:
- A shade that is too dark. A black pencil with light hair usually looks too harsh. Choose a shade one tone lighter, or draw more lightly and blend more with the spoolie.
- A “boxy” start. A heavily outlined start of the brow, cut off at a right angle, instantly gives the makeup away. At the start, use just a few fine vertical hairs, blended with the spoolie.
- A line that is too thick. A heavy outline around the whole brow with a dark centre looks stencilled. Define only the lower edge, then draw a few short, tapered strokes that follow the direction of your brow hairs.
- A tail that drags downwards. A long tail drawn down pulls the face down and gives it a sad expression. Stop roughly at the line from the side of your nose through the outer corner of your eye, and do not let the tip of the tail drop below the start.
- Unblended colour. Without the spoolie, even well-drawn strokes look graphic. This step takes a few seconds but makes the biggest difference.
Frequently asked questions
What colour eyebrow pencil should I choose?
Choose based on your brow hairs and overall hair colour. Blondes usually suit one or two shades darker, brunettes one shade lighter. If in doubt, compare two shades in daylight – a softer one is often easier to build up than a dark one is to tone down.
How do you fill in eyebrows with a pencil so they do not look drawn on?
Use short, fine strokes in the direction the hairs grow, not a solid line. Keep the start softest and the strongest colour from the arch to the tail. When you are done, blend the colour with the spoolie.
Can you draw hair-like strokes with a pencil?
Yes, if the pencil has a fine tip and you use a light touch. Each stroke should be short and taper towards the end. The impression of density comes from several overlapping hairs, not one thick stroke.
How long does it take to fill in your eyebrows?
Once you have the hang of it, 2–5 minutes is enough for both brows. The first few times it may take twice as long, especially while you find your shape using the three guide points. After that your hand gets used to it and it all goes faster.
Do you need brow gel or brow soap?
Not necessarily. A clear brow gel or brow soap comes in handy if your hairs are long, unruly or grow in different directions – it holds them in place. If your brows behave, the spoolie is enough.
What should I do if my brows come out too dark?
First brush through a few times with a dry spoolie – it removes some of the colour. If that is not enough, dampen a cotton bud with makeup remover, carefully remove the excess and touch up with light strokes.
Do you need to sharpen an eyebrow pencil?
A twist-up pencil does not need sharpening – just twist up as much as you need. The LUMIMI Eyebrow pencil twists up and has an ultra-fine tip, which makes it easy to draw hair-like strokes.